Zanzibar is located 40 km from the coast of Africa, opposite Tanzania, of which it is an administrative entity. Welcome to Zanzibar. Walk through Stone Town to discover historic gems such as the Old Fort, party the night away at the Full Moon Party at Kendwa Rocks, visit the giant tortoises on Prison Island, watch the sunset from a dhow cruise or dive into the turquoise waters to join the dolphins and corals of the Indian Ocean. Jambo, as they say over there. Zanzibar, whose name sounds like an invitation to travel, has always been part of everyone's imagination.
Article summary:
2 nights stay in the east at Pingwe/ Michamvi
2 nights stay in the northwest at Kendwa/ Nungwi
3 nights stay in the northeast at Matemwe/ Kigomani
3 nights stay in the main town of Stone Town
Before you set off for Tanzania and its Zanzibar archipelago, here are a few things you need to know:
Language: the official language is Swahili, and I advise you to learn the basics, as not everyone speaks English. However, in tourist areas such as hotels, tourist restaurants or agencies offering activities, you shouldn't have too much trouble making yourself understood.
Currency: the official currency is the Tanzanian shilling. However, in most tourist areas you can easily pay in dollars. I recommend that you withdraw your money in Europe to avoid local ATM withdrawal charges of between 5% and 7%. You can change euros directly at Zanzibar airport or at exchange offices in the island's major cities.
Cost of living: The cost of living in Zanzibar is very low for locals, but can be very expensive for tourists. Of course, prices are close to European levels for well-known hotels and "tourist" restaurants, as well as for certain activities.
To help you prepare for your trip to Zanzibar, I recommend the following articles.
Which beach to choose in Zanzibar?
I spent 10 days touring the island in search of Zanzibar's most beautiful beaches. Yes, some are more beautiful than others, but each is wonderful in its own way. After all, white sand beaches, turquoise water and friendly locals almost guarantee that every visitor will have a good time. For me, the most beautiful beach in Zanzibar is Kendwa, while Paje and Jambiani are ideal for kite surfing and Matemwe is perfect for seclusion away from the tourists. I therefore recommend the north for swimming, the east coast for wild beaches and I strongly recommend a visit to Stone Town. Zanzibar City is the capital of Zanzibar, and Stone Town is its beating heart. The city perfectly reflects the history of East Africa, with a blend of European, Arab, Persian and Indian cultures. Depending on the hotel you choose for your Zanzibar vacation, you'll discover different regions, but always facing lagoons in indecent shades of blue.
Stay in Pingwe in south-east Zanzibar
I spent my first 2 nights in Pingwe, located on the eastern side of the island of Zanzibar and 2 hours from the international airport. It's one of the best resorts on the island for partying, starfish watching and diving in the Blue Lagoon. I don't know why, but this part of the island is the haunt of the Italians. There are also a large number of restaurants, hotels and Massai shops. You can really find everything here, from low-cost eateries to overpriced restaurants.
Where to stay in Pingwe in south-east Zanzibar?
For my 3-day stay, I chose the Hotel Baladin, a luxurious hotel with local charm, committed to the environment and the professional integration of local people. An intimate setting, unrivalled service and a beautiful turquoise-colored beach, the hotel offers only 8 bungalows, so book in advance to secure a bungalow for your dates.
Other accommodation options in the Michamvi/Pingwe area?
Entry-level hotel: Zeru Zeru Eco Local Wild Lodge from €20/night
Mid-range hotel:Baladin hôtel from €190/night
Luxury hotel: Xanadu Villas & Retreat from €858/night
Things to do in Pingwe/Michamvi
Sunset Traditional Dhow Excursion: a sunset cruise on a local dhow. I left Pingwe in the early afternoon and sailed along the coast criss-crossing the clear turquoise waters. The fiery golden sunset beyond the horizon is breathtaking, turning the sky into a magical canvas of shades of pinks, purples, blues and oranges. On board the dhow, there were two guides to drive the yacht and explain the secrets of the mangrooves, which I was lucky enough to discover during a quick stop of about 15 minutes.
👉 Click here to book the Traditional Dhow excursion, 55€ with French guide
Blue Lagoon and Starfish Snorkeling: a full-day excursion accompanied by an expert guide, to soak up the atmosphere of the Blue Lagoon atoll, marvel at the Starfish atoll at Michamvi Beach; and discover the secret beach of Paje Beach, ranked among the ten best beaches in the world. The tour starts with an early morning snorkel in Blue Lagoon Atoll, followed by another dive in Michamvi Sea, to see the starfish. It's a unique opportunity to swim with starfish in their natural environment and enjoy the clear waters of the Indian Ocean.
👉 Click here to book the snorkeling and Starfish activity 77€ with French guide.
Crystal Kayak : The hotel offers Crystal kayak rental at $10 per person for one hour, but I'm not a great sportswoman, so I didn't really enjoy it. With the high and low tides, every 5 minutes I'd get stuck in rocks and couldn't even get out to push the kayak, because I could see big sea urchins everywhere thanks to the Crystal kayak, which allowed me to see the bottom. I had more trouble than fun, but I think this activity could be more enjoyable on the Kendwa side, where there's less wind, less seaweed and fewer tides.
Jozani Forest: a forest unique on the island, with endemic monkeys. It is home to exceptional flora and fauna, including the famous Zanzibar red colobus, the sykes monkey, Bush babies, over 50 species of butterfly and 50 species of bird, the Zanzibar nocturnal hyrax. The bay of jozani Chwaka is bordered by mangrove forests, an important breeding ground for marine organisms and the island's birds.
See all activities at Michamvi
Where to go out, what to do at night in Pingwe/Michamvi?
There's only one address on the Michamvi coast that's not to be missed: Kae Beach. If you're looking for an incredible sunset, Kae Beach is the place to be. You can get there by car or by boat. On my first night at Pingwe, I drove to the bar, and on my second night, I took the Sunset Dhow tour, a two-hour crossing on a traditional sailboat. I was lucky enough to see a beautiful end to the day twice, with good music, fresh cocktails and incredible colors in the sky. The beach bar organizes Ngoma shows, African dances with African drums and percussion. After barely 24 hours on the island, I'm already under the spell of the locals! All smiling, all welcoming! The bar is open from 11 a.m. to 11 p.m., and can be reached on Whatsapp +255784743333.
Where to eat in Pingwe/ Michamvi?
- The rocks: The famous restaurant the Rocks is just a few steps from the hotel, and I booked a table for lunch there, but in view of the prices, I turned back. The prices are triple what you'd find in other beachside restaurants, and the view and setting are fine, but not exceptional enough to justify the prices. To give you an idea: drinks are $10, starters $20 and main courses $30 on average, whereas in other restaurants, it's more like $1 a drink and $15 on average for a seafood dish.
- Coconut Restaurant (Mama Aisha): I highly recommend this restaurant, the meals are prepared by mama aisha and her husband, the taste is there, the quantities are generous, the prices are more than correct, the view is incredible and the restaurant is much more in the juice. The restaurant is located next to the Baladin hotel. If in doubt, you can reach them on Whatsapp: +255773166600
- The hotel restaurant: the hotel restaurant is very good, a little more expensive than local restaurants but still reasonable, the taste is there, not to mention the breathtaking view from the restaurant's heights.
Summary of 2 nights in Pingwe
🏨 - Hotel: Baladin Zanzibar
🚗 - Transportation: two-hour drive from Stone Town airport
💆 - Activities: Crystal Kayak + Dhow sunset excursion + Kae Beach + massage
🍔 - Restaurants: hotel restaurant, The rocks and Mama Aisha
💰 - Budget: 750€ for two, excluding food
2 days at Kendwa in northwest Zanzibar
Located in the north-west, Kendwa is the place to be! It's the island's liveliest town, with the most beautiful beach on the island and plenty of restaurants to suit all tastes. There's a large day/night market with many handicrafts just a few minutes' drive from Kendwa. In fact, I bought most of my souvenirs at the Nungwi night market! Kendwa is a long beach with incredible turquoise-blue water. Get up at dawn to admire the starfish and shellfish that line the beaches at high tide.
Where to stay in Kendwa - north west zanzibar?
I stayed at the kendwa Rocks hotel, in a beachfront bungalow and was very satisfied with the hotel. The hotel is large, with lots of greenery and several landscaped areas. There are plenty of sun loungers on the beach, and a swimming pool nearby.
The room overlooks the beach and has a terrace, TV, sitting area, mini-refrigerator, hairdryer, air conditioning and, of course, a mosquito net around the bed. The hotel's location is excellent, directly overlooking one of the best parts of the beach for swimming but also for the atmosphere, with a nautical base next door, massai shops and plenty of restaurants. The hotel also has ample free parking for residents.
Other accommodation options in the Kendwa area?
Entry-level hotel: Tropicana Kendwa from €50/night
Mid-range hotel: Kendwa Rocks from €160/night
Luxury hotel: Zuri Zanzibar from €656/night
Things to do in Kendwa
Swimming with sea turtles: the Baraka aquarium, otherwise known as the Mnarani Turtle Conservation Pond, is a sanctuary that works to preserve sea turtles threatened by poaching. It's a natural seawater basin where turtles reproduce without the risk of poaching. At Nungwi, if fishermen accidentally catch a turtle in their net, they bring it here! When you visit, you'll discover leatherback, loggerhead and olive ridley turtles, which you can feed and swim with.
Safari in a national park: At last, Africa and its wild animals are not far away: a one-day safari with an early start and a late return in one of the country's reserves is a "must do". The best thing, of course, is to plan at least one night to get the most out of it. I've written an article to explain the difference between the parks, with links to Safari bookings directly from the Zanzibar archipelago and my personal feedback.
Getting a massage: I was massaged by Mwajuma in a very pleasant room by the beach. You can reach her on her whatsapp at +255773824519.
See all Kendwa activities
Where to go out, what to do at night in Kendwa/ Nungwi?
- Nungwi night market: the Nungwi night market offers a warm and festive atmosphere, and is a 10-minute drive from Kendwa, behind the hotel fences, between Nungwi Road and the beach. Leave your hotel at nightfall for a drink with your feet in the sand, dance to local music in the village bars or shop for paintings and souvenirs in the small local boutiques open until around 10pm. During my stay, I tried out the Istanbul restaurant and the Badolina Secret Garden, both of which were excellent (apart from the enormous amount of salt in all the dishes, as elsewhere on the archipelago). If you're not motorized, I recommend you book the activity below.
Where to eat in Kendwa/ Nungwi?
I dined every evening of my stay in the north-west of Zanzibar in the center of Nungwi, so I was able to try out several restaurants and bars, including the Istanbul restaurant and the Badolina restaurant. For lunch, I tried out several restaurants next to the hotel, the prices are higher than in other towns on the island, but I recommend the Paradise restaurant, the only one that stood out for me with its good dishes and excellent service.
Summary of 2 nights in Kendwa
🏨 - Hotel: Kendwa Rocks
🚗 - Transport: three-hour drive from Pingwe
💆 - Activities: Baraka aquarium, night market, Safari, massage
🍔 - Restaurants: hotel restaurant, Paradise, Badolina and Istanbul
💰 - Budget: €995 for two, excluding food
3 days at Matemwe in north-east Zanzibar
In Matemwe, I discovered a real fishing village where I visited its dhow-building yard (a small local craft, celebrated in many photos of the region). Don't hesitate to venture out into the villages close to your holiday destination: Zanzibarites are very welcoming people who will always be delighted to show you their daily lives.
Where to stay in Matemwe - north east zanzibar?
Other accommodation options in the Matemwe area?
Entry-level hotel: Miramont Retreat Zanzibar from €50/night
Mid-range hotel: Jafferji Beach Retreat from €100/night
Luxury hotel: Matemwe Lodge from €450/night
Things to do in Matemwe
- Discovering Mnemba Atoll: the best activity of my life, I had the chance to swim with dolphins in their natural environment, snorkel for an hour to discover the incredible seabed of the Indian Ocean and finish with a swim in clear water above a sandbank. An incredible activity that I highly recommend. Pay attention to the weather, and only do this activity on sunny days to make sure you enjoy the experience and see the dolphins and fish, which tend to hide, on rainy and windy days.
- Visit to the fishing village of Kigomani: This activity allows us to visit the village of Kigomani, one of the most untouched by mass tourism in Zanzibar. It's an ideal opportunity to meet the locals and learn about their livelihoods. Remember to buy school supplies and donations for the families during your visit. For more information, see point 10 of my my article on preparing for a trip to Zanzibar..
- Deep-sea big-game fishing: Not being a fishing fan, I didn't try this activity, but if you like big-game fishing, Matemwe is the place to be. The fishing starts early at 6 a.m., on a local speedboat (Yamaha fiber boat) and modern fishing equipment. The main objective is to catch big fish such as tuna, merlin, Dorado bull, etc.
See all Matemwe activities
Where to go out, what to do at night in Matemwe?
Let yourself be enchanted by the sound of Taarab (Arabic for joy), Zanzibar's popular music, sung poems that blend African, Indian and Arabic influences.
During my stay in Matemwe, I was able to try out three addresses, two of which offer a live show with music and cocktails at affordable prices!
- Zanzibar Sunrise at Bandas: live show available every Tuesday and Friday from 8 to 10 p.m.
- Mambo Paradise: live show every Thursday from 7 p.m.
- Seles Bungalows: No live show but the bar offers several cocktails and good food, their chicken chapati is very good but very salty (as usual).
Where to eat in Matemwe
- Bin Jabir: one of the best restaurants in Matemwe, with an extraordinary, smiling, professional and friendly team. The food is so good, simple and generously proportioned. You can reach them on Whatsapp: +255 773 083 260
- Mohammed's Bungalows: Mohammed is a great cook and a very kind person. The way he prepares the sauce for the rice and cooks the fish and seafood is incredible. I came back several times for lunch and dinner at Mohammed's, and all the dishes I tried were excellent. You can reach them on Whatsapp: +255 777 431 881
Summary of 3 nights in Matemwe
🏨 - Hotel: Jafferji Beach Retreat
🚗 - Transport: one hour from Kendwa
💆 - Activities: village tour, live music show, fish market
🍔 - Restaurants: Mohamed Bungalows, Ben Jabir restaurant
💰 - Budget: €435 for two
3 days in Stone Town in southwest Zanzibar
Less than 15 minutes from the airport is Stone Town, the capital whose historic center has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2000. Stone Town is Zanzibar's must-see. Ideally, you should stay for 2 or 3 nights to fully appreciate its charm, otherwise a day's visit won't go amiss.
Where to stay in Stone Town - south-west Zanzibar?
For my 3-night stay in Stone Town, I wanted a hotel inside the fort, in the medina, within walking distance of the town's port, the night market and all the other points of interest in Stone Town. So I chose the Jafferji House & Spa. The hotel assigned me the Kamastura suite, and I'll let you take a look at the decoration details to understand how the suite got its name. The hotel has a rooftop restaurant with a beautiful view overlooking the Medina and the open Indian Ocean. I recommend the hotel for its location, style and attentive staff. Not to mention its excellent value for money.
Other accommodation options in Stone Town?
Entry-level hotel: Hôtel Smiles from €35/night
Mid-range hotel: Jafferji House & Spa from €140/night
Luxury hotel: Park Hyatt from €350/night
Things to do in Stone Town
Discovering the city with a guide: when I arrived in the morning, I booked a guide for the Stone Town City Tour to discover the city, its streets, markets, mosques and churches, and its historic architecture. During this pleasant stroll, I spotted the city's emblematic landmarks: the former site of the slave market, now an Anglican church built in 1871, the city market, the Zanzibar Memorial Museum, the House of Wonders built in 1883 (Beit-Al-Ajab), the old Arab fort, the palace museum, Freddie Mercury's house and the cultural center containing the ruins of Maruhubi Palace.
Take a Spice Tour: Meet at 10 a.m. and head for the farms of Stone Town for a spicy journey. This activity is a journey to awaken the 5 senses during a tour of the farms. During the Spice Tour, I saw and tasted a variety of tropical fruits and spices, met a local family, sampled the food they grow on their land, before learning to cook with them in their kitchen. After thanking the family for letting me share this moment with them, the guide took us to another part of the farm where I discovered cloves, nutmeg, cinnamon, cardamom, turmeric and ginger root, before moving on to durian and jackfruit, vanilla beans and cocoa, licorice, breadfruit, saffron, iodine, ylang ylang, lemongrass and every form of pepper imaginable.
See giant tortoises at Prison Island: after the Spice Tour, I followed up with the Prison Island Boat Tour, an island that was once a prison for the archipelago's slaves and inmates, and is now home to Aldabra's giant tortoises. Bordered by a magnificent reef sanctuary beach, the island is ideal for swimming, snorkeling and relaxing on the beach. Getting to the island takes around 30 minutes by motorboat, and the Indian Ocean can be pretty rough, so be warned if you get seasick easily, remember to take a pill before the activity. The island's turtles are literally giants, creeping silently along while munching on everything green in sight. So I was able to feed and touch several turtles, including THE star of the island, the oldest turtle, aged 196 years. Its age is written on its shell, so you can easily spot it.
Safari Blue: as the name suggests, this is a safari, a Safari in the Indian Ocean, in search of the archipelago's most beautiful islets and the best seabed on Kwale Reef. A full day of sailing/snorkeling/sunbathing on a traditional dhow and seafood barbecue. Leaving Fumba to explore Menai Bay, where dolphins are often spotted (I wasn't lucky enough to see them this time). Dropping anchor at the Kwale sandbank, I dived into the coral reefs of Kwale for an hour of snorkeling, in search of the most beautiful fish in the south of the island. The underwater scenery is fabulous, but not up to the natural richness of the Mnemba area, We continued the activity afterwards with a buffet of grilled fish, lobster, squid, chicken and coconut rice, served on an island dedicated to the tourists on these excursions. After lunch, we sailed to a beautiful natural lagoon where we bathed again. The activity ended at the end of the day, with a return to the mainland by motorboat.
See all Stone Town activities
Where to go out, what to do at night in Stone Town?
- Stone Town night market: I highly recommend this activity, as I was able to explore the Darajani market, enjoy a cocktail at the Sunset bar at Africa House, the best place to watch the sunset in Stone Town, and visit the street food night market at Forodhani Gardens, where I sampled local food and drinks such as Zanzibar pizza, urojo soup, shawarma, sugar cane juice, spice tea and much more. A unique 3-hour gastronomic tour of Stone Town.
Where to eat in Stone Town
- Africana Coffee Shop: a café-restaurant in the heart of the Arab fort, this restaurant offers several dishes at very attractive prices, with friendly staff and generous portions.
- Restaurant Lukmaan: known as the best restaurant in Stone Town, the food is decent but the prices defy all competition. I dined twice at Lukmaan during my stay and was not disappointed.
- Rooftop dining: if you'd like to watch the sunset from the rooftop of the Emerson Hotel, you'll need to book your table in advance and count €50 per person for a single predefined menu, which includes a starter, main course and dessert.
Summary of 3 nights in Stone Town
🏨 - Hotel: Jafferji House and spa
🚗 - Transport: one hour from Matemwe
💆 - Activities: Spice Tour, City Tour, Safari Blue, Prison Island, Safari
🍔 - Restaurants: Lukmaan, Emerson and Africana
💰 - Budget: €836 for two
Favourites - what I liked best about Zanzibar:
The Zanzibar archipelago as a whole, for its breathtaking scenery, emerald waters, sublime beaches, wildlife and happy people full of positive vibes. A true delight.
Within the archipelago itself, the island of Mnemba is a 20-minute crossing from Matemwe, where I was able to explore the corals of the Indian Ocean and swim with the dolphins beyond the reef. A great first for me, and all the more impressive because I wasn't expecting it.
Stone Town, the beating heart of Zanizbar, a town rich in history, charm, smell and heritage. Arabian doors mixed with Hindu spices and songs give it an almost magical, phantasmagorical atmosphere that makes you feel as if you've moved to another continent!
Kendwa beach, a romantic little cove of fine sand nestled between Nungwi and Kigunda. The only one where you can really swim at any time of day.
You feel really safe, whether you're wearing a swimsuit or a long dress, and the locals are respectful. With cash and phone in hand, you can walk around without worrying about robberies.
Disappointments - what I liked least about Zanzibar:
Wind, seaweed and sea urchins make swimming impossible in the south and north-east of the island. I'm thinking in particular of the Pingwe and Matemwe beaches in the east, from which you can enjoy the turquoise water, but you can never swim in it.
The Sunset Cruise: I fell ill during this excursion, it was so cold during the sunset that I shivered for an hour just to get back to dry land.
The rocks restaurant: A little too oversold, the restaurant is very expensive, the view is good but it's not worth it. All the more so, as you always have this beautiful view of the beach from any hotel or restaurant around Pingwe.
The beach boys are far too insistent, which is fine for the first two days, but becomes really unpleasant over time. It's impossible to take a walk along the seafront on your own to enjoy the moment or to be with yourself, a mission impossible.Budget Total du séjour:
🛫 - Flights: 1200€ for two
🏨 - Hotels: 1450€ for two
🚗 - Transportation: 150€ car rental + permits
💆 - Activities and Safari: Approximately 1800€ for two
🍔 - Restaurants: Approx. 600€ for two
💰 - Budget: 2600€ per person all inclusive
Want to travel like me?
Here are some of my favorite travel tips and resources:
🛫 Flights: I prefer to use Ulysse Travel to book my flights. A French flight comparator with responsive customer service. Get €10 off your flights with my code.
🏩 Accommodation: Expedia.fr is my favorite site for finding great hotel deals, otherwise I also search local sites in the destination country for small local accommodations.
💰 Cashback: I always activate iGraal before booking flights, hotels and car rentals, and also before doing my daily shopping online. 3€ are offered upon registration.
🚣 Activities: I love going on excursions to explore destinations like a local, I book everything in advance on reference sites GetYourGuide and Viator.
💳 Credit card: I use the free N26 bank card for free payments and withdrawals abroad, in all world currencies. A mobile bank with no hidden fees and no paperwork.
📸 Camera equipment: I use my iPhone 11 pro max with a DJI Osmo 3 stabilizer and a DJI Mavic mini 2 drone (the only DJI drone you can take in the cabin, because it weighs less than 250 grams).
💼 Baggage: My suitcases and my storage bags are from Tekmi. My cases are rigid and unbreakable, made entirely of Polycarbonate.